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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.